Hidden Hawaii Honeymoon
If you like the idea of a Hawaii honeymoon, but the thought of crowded beaches and tourist traps makes you think twice, then consider Molokai.
There, you'll find dramatic waterfalls, the world's tallest sea cliffs, rainforests, fragrant plumeria trees, archeological sites, ranches, coral reefs, authentic native Hawaiian culture, and some of the most spectacular white beaches in Hawaii—but no stoplights, no crowds of tourists, and no building taller than a coconut tree. The island, which is 38 miles long by 10 miles wide, has only 7,000 permanent residents (most of them native Hawaiians) and 80,000 visitors per year. Honeymoon here, and the island is practically yours.
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Molokai Overview
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Molokai has some of
Hawaii's longest—and emptiest—beaches, including the
three-mile long Papohaku Beach. (Photo
by Ray Mains courtesy of the
Molokai Visitors Association.)
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Despite its lack of commercial and
tourist development, there is still plenty to see and do on Molokai (as
the extensive list of activities and attractions
below demonstrates). "Life on Moloka‘i is so non-commercial that visitors at first might wonder,
'Where’s the Hawaiian stuff?'" the Molokai Visitors Association says
on its website.
"The answer is–it’s everywhere. Impromptu performances at Kaunakakai’s
Saturday street market. A group of men standing out on the reef hauling
a net together. Young girls dancing during the dinner hour at one of the
small hotels. The baggage handlers playing ‘ukulele in the lull between
planes. It’s normal life."
Islanders like to say that Hawaiian
culture is not so much preserved as it is lived on the island—it's
frequently called the "most Hawaiian" of the Hawaiian islands. That's
because native Hawaiians make up most of Molokai's population, and the
Hawaiian Homestead Act of 1920 restored their control of ancestral lands
(including much of the coast). Most of the island is rural, enabling
many native Hawaiians to practice traditional livelihoods such as
farming, fishing, and hunting. Hawaiian culture is also on display
during the island's many festivals, which are celebrations of native
culture by Hawaiians, for Hawaiians—on Molokai, they are not primarily
tourist events, although visitors are more than welcome.
The island's terrain varies widely. On the north side are gigantic
cliffs rising more than 3,000 feet above the sea, sliced by razor-thin
canyons and the tallest waterfalls in Hawaii. The Kalaupapa Peninsula,
which extends from the foot of the cliffs, contains a rainforest with
plant and animal life found nowhere else in the world. The western
coastline forms a bowl-shaped arc that is home to some of Hawaii's
largest (and least crowded) beaches. Central Molokai is hilly, rough
pastureland largely devoted to agriculture. The eastern part of the
island is rainier and more forested, while the south shore is protected
by the most extensive reef system in the United States.
Molokai offers a variety of
different accommodations: bed-and-breakfasts in the central part of the
island, three modest mini-resorts along the sheltered south shore,
ranches on the east side of the island, and condominiums on the north. A
number of guest houses are also available for rental. Cut-rate
backpacker lodging, as well as camping, is a possibility for couples on
a budget.
Is this honeymoon idea for you?
The Molokai Visitors Association sums
up the island experience nicely: "Moloka‘i is not for everybody–and
that’s precisely the reason to go." So, is Molokai for you? Yes,
if you're looking for a laid-back honeymoon among friendly, authentic
people in a tropical paradise. But if you're looking for vibrant
nightlife, shopping, and the typical Hawaiian tourist experience, it
might be better to try one of the other Hawaiian islands.
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Activities and Attractions
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Molokai's lush valleys beckon.
(National Park Service photo)
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Here's just a sampling of what you can
see and do on Molokai:
Hit the beach. Molokai
boasts 16 beaches (although only six are considered suitable for
swimming), including one of Hawaii's largest white-sand beaches:
Papohaku Beach, which is three miles long and 100 yards wide (long
stroll at sunset, anyone?). Quite a few visitors report not
encountering anyone else on the beach—not even another footprint!
Take a cruise. Molokai Charters offer a variety of cruises,
including a whale-watching cruise, a sunset cruise, and a snorkeling
cruise. Other charter boats will take you deep-sea sport fishing, while
Moloka‘i Action Adventures offers wild rides along the island's stunning
sea cliffs.
Play in the water. The reef
that lies about a mile off Molokai's south shore creates relatively
calm, shallow, lake-like waters for all sorts of aquatic activities.
Hop into a kayak and explore the shore's ancient fishponds and
mangrove forests. Or go scuba diving with native guides who can show
you the area's underwater caves, blue holes, and hammerhead sharks.
Snorkeling is also an option, although online reviewers who have
snorkeled on Molokai say it's not as good as on other Hawaiian
islands.
Take a tour. Tour the Molokai Coffee Plantation to learn
about coffee production from seed to cup, and dine at the restaurant
next door. Want a little sugar with that coffee? Head over the the
historic R. W. Meyer Sugar Mill to see nineteenth-century sugar
processing. Tour Honouliwai Taro Patch Farm, which grows taro (the
staple food of old Hawaii) in a plot of ancient fish ponds, or go
nuts at Purdy's Macadamia Nut Farm.
Head into town. Kaunakakai,
Molokai's largest town, offers shopping and dining opportunities in its
one-block-long "downtown"—the perfect place to pick up some wine,
Molokai sweet bread, or maybe a homemade lunch sold off the back of an
old pickup by a Hawaiian family. Kamakana Gallery displays the work of
the island's artists, including traditional native art forms. The
Molokai Visitors Association advises guests to stock up on provisions
soon after arriving, as the town largely closes down after sunset and on
Sundays. One exception to that rule is the Kanemitsu Bakery, where
people start lining up at the back door around 10 p.m. in order to buy
the bakery's famous bread hot out of the oven.
Explore the island by bike. The
Lodge and Beach Village at Moloka'i Ranch maintains a network of some sixty bike trails ranging
from flat and easy to expert-level mountain bike trails along the sea
cliffs. Or trade your rental car for rented bikes and tour the island at
a slower pace for a few days.
Take a hike on Hawaii's wild side. Kamakou Preserve, maintained
by the Nature Conservancy, contains more than 250 species of native
plants, 90 percent of them found only on Hawaii. A boardwalk offers
close-up views of a bog, as well as nice views of two valleys ornamented
by long waterfalls. The Nature Conservancy also runs a shoreline
preserve at Mo‘omomi, where coastal dunes protect rare native plants and
animals
Swim beneath a waterfall.
Hike through the forests of Halawa Valley to the 250-foot high
Moa‘ula Falls, and swim in the pools beneath the falls. (The valley
and waterfall are on private property, so you will need permission
and a guide.)
Ride into
the sunset, and the sea. Pu'u O Hoku Ranch is a small-scale
cattle ranch and organic farm that has a variety of trails on its
14,000 acres. These trails feature the beautiful Halawa Valley,
waterfalls, secret swimming holes, views of the North Shore sea
cliffs, and (in winter) a humpback whale nursery. Explore the trails
by bicycle or horseback. The ranch offers a romantic sunset
horseback ride, complete with champagne dinner in a wild setting, as
well as a coastal ride that culminates with a plunge into the sea,
horse and all. Molokai Ranch, a working cattle ranch and resort,
also offers horseback riding—but not your typical nose-to-tail trail
ride; you can even participate in a roundup.
Descend the tallest sea
cliffs in the world. You can descend the sea cliffs on the
north side of the island along a four-mile trail to the
Kalaupapa Peninsula; the wide, safe trail drops nearly two
thousand feet by means of twenty-six switchbacks. You can hike
the trail on foot, or on mule-back.
Find
ancient Hawaii. Hike coastal trails on the west side of Molokai
to the remains of an old village, an adze quarry, and an ancient
paved road. Historical Hikes West Moloka'i offers outings in the
area that emphasize stories of Hawaii’s culture and history.
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Cost
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Molokai offers a wide
range of accommodations; the Molokai Ranch, a working cattle
ranch, offers beachside "tentalows" as well as luxurious
resort-style lodging. (Photo courtesy
of the Lodge & Beach Village at Molokai Ranch)
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To provide a rough idea of how much a
honeymoon on Molokai might cost, we looked at airfares throughout the
coming year and a range of accommodation possibilities. At the time of
this writing, airfare from Los Angeles to Honolulu ran about $500-$600
per person. You can get to Molokai from Honolulu by plane ($177) or, if
you stop at Maui first, by the Maui-Molokai ferry($40 per person, one
way, not including taxes and fees). Accommodation rates vary widely. You
can camp for as little as $5 a night at state, county, or national parks
on Molokai; other accommodations range from about $85 to $500 per night,
with many in the $100-$200 range (don't forget to take the room tax into
account). Visit during the low season (April - December) for cheaper
rates.
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Destination Guides
